A lighthouse was built in the 19th century on the spot where a temple to Achilles once stood. In the modern age, rival powers contested the island: the Ottomans, the Russian empire and the Germans. Sailors were advised not to sleep there, lest they anger the gods. In some versions, Helen of Troy joined him. According to mythology, it was where the spirit of Achilles went after his death at Troy. The Greeks knew it as White Island, after its rock formations, or – as one story had it – the colour of its serpents. It was a rocky outpost in the Black Sea an ancient place known in Ukrainian as Ostriv Zmiin yi. They were being sent to a strategically important mini-territory 22 miles from Ukraine’s southern coast. He became a border guard, rose up the ranks and last year received an order to move to a new maritime location. Hotskiy tells me that as a teenager he wanted to join an elite service.
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